Alaska Cruise May 2008

18 May 2008..........................Seattle
B.A. And I started our journey by taking Fly Away from the Union Station to LAX. It was quite a smooth ride, and efficient too. LAX was a zoo as usual and we utilized Delta curb side check-in to beat the crowd. I believe it's worth spending $3 a piece luggage to save energy. Then we were joined by Fanny Han and Sharon Chow at LAX.

Surprisingly, it was not raining in Seattle. Star Princess was lying quietly alongside at her berth in Seattle until we got aboard around 2:00 pm. Check-in process was in fairly organized manner, especially for people already completed e-check-in process. At 16:10, Star Princess was ready to sail. The mooring lines were let go, and with the help of the thrusters, the propulsion and the steering, the vessel moved off the berth, then we steamed out through the bay. Once we were outside of the bay and the local pilot disembarked, Star Princess began her voyage following the traffic separation scheme of Juan de Fuca Strait toward Ketchikan.

The stateroom is tiny, comparing to Carnival ship. The shower space is super jammed. One small stand was right in the middle of the hallway. I couldn't help running into it when I passed through. It's a very strange placement. The ship conducted a muster station drill, as mandated.

They put us under 'anytime dining', which is the most flexible arrangement. Sharon, Fanny's sister, and her husband Ted switched to 'anytime dining' afterwards.

19 May 2008....................................At Sea
Throughout the day Star Princess continued on her various courses towards Ketchikan.

An Introduction to Alaska (by Naturalist Alan Cortash):
He told us about the highlights of our cruise, the animals, glaciers and the scenery.
. Mount Reneir: 14,400 feet high
. Alaska: 'the great land', last frontier, and land of extremes; it stretches 600,000 miles and 47,000 miles of coastline
. People: 550,000, half of them live in Anchorage
. Denali National Park: Mt. McKinley is 20,320 feet in elevation
. Anchorage: is flat open tundra
. Tongas: Alaska's temperate vanishing rain forest which is the South East of Alaska we will be cruising
. Alaska Marine Highway: ferries, barges, or float planes; Alaska has more registered pilots per capita than other states
. Ketchikan: rains 160 inches a year; average temperature in summer is 60 degrees; a lot of steep hills; population is 8,000 to 14,000; Deer Mountain is 3001 feet in height
. 3 different trees in Tongas: 1) Sitka Spruce which is tall, sharp and straight; 2) Western Hemlock which bows its head; 3) alder
. Tlingit: everything has spirit, e.g., tree people
. Muskeg: a soft soil, weird stuff, like sponge; not much soil left in Alaska
. Glacier: snow gets compressed into land of ice; 1) Hanging glaciers 2) Tidewater glaciers 3) Valley glaciers which are small
. Fjord: created by water flown from glacier
. Land of Fire: Augustine volcano erupted 2006
. Misty Fjord National Monument: New Eddystone Rock is 200 feet tall
. Animals inhabited: no penguins which are in anti-Arctic; no poler bears which are in Arctic; no caribous which are in Arctic; no elks which are in Canada; no Dall's sheep; we do have:
1) black bears which are small
2) brown bears which are bigger
3) moose: 1600 pounds; they like wet lands
4) mountain goats: the skin is used in Chilkoot dance blanket
5) deers: excellent swimmers
6) bald eagle: in Ketchikan
7) Harbor seal: resting on ice or rock
8) Whales: from small to large
. spaceweather.com: days are getting longer
. Forget Me Not: state flower
. Alaska depends on: 1) oil 2) tourists

20 May 2008..............................Ketchikan
Ships clocks were retarded 1 hour at 0200 to GMT - 8
0200 Enter Alaskan waters
After the Alaskan Pilot's embarkation abeam of Twin Island at around 0400, Star Princess made her final approach to Ketchikan. We were alongside with gangways rigged and ready by 0600.

Today, Ketchikan is at 58 degrees. This fishing village is showering. Ketchikan is known as Alaska's “First City” because it's the first major community travelers come to as they journey north. Located on an island, Ketchikan began life as an Indian fishing camp. The name Ketchikan comes from a Tlingit phrase that means “eagle with spread out wings” a reference to a waterfall near town. In the early 1900's, when gold was Alaska's claim to fame, fishing and timber industries were established in Ketchikan. These industries helped make this Inside Passage port Alaska's fourth-largest city. We were intrigued by its rich Indian heritage, which includes the world's oldest collection of totem poles at Totem Heritage Center. The Heida, Tlingit and Tsimshian are all a part of the city's colorful history. Ketchikan, with its abundance of salmon, is also a sportfishing paradise. We were impressed with both the scenic town and its surroundings. But we missed out Misty Fjords National Monument.

We had a rare opportunity to visit a living Saxman Native village. For generations, the Tlingit villages greeted guests with elaborate tribal ceremonies. They welcomed us with Cape Fox Dancers performing traditional dances and tell stories in the Beaver Clan House. The Beaver Clan House we saw did not use any nails nor screws, and mostly was built by red cedar. More levels in the house means more wealth. They like to have pot-latch, i.e., party, in the house for guests. Then I experienced the thrill of joining the dancers for the show's finale. Afterwards, we visited the Village Carving Center. The carvers apply skills passed down for centuries, who create some of the most sought-after Native art in the world.

We didn't find any grass ball field because it's made of gravel. Average snow fall is 6 inches. Our host eagerly shared his history, art and traditional way of life while unraveling the mysteries of the towering totem poles. Totem pole identifies which clan it belongs to. On the return trip, we saw the sights of Ketchikan including the bustling harbors, infamous Creek Street, the former red-light district, historic residential areas and the turn-of-the-century style downtown area.

We visited Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Center which showcases Alaska Native traditions and culture. We even took the opportunity to photograph two live eagles up close. Then we toured this unique salmon and steelhead trout rearing facility. We saw thousands of fish and learned how indigenous life-styles are tied to the sea.

At 1620, with all passengers and crew on board, Star Princess was ready to sail. Once all lines were clear of the water at 1647, we commenced to thrust off, making way towards the Tongass Narrows. Star Princess set various north-westerly courses through Clarence Strait towards Tracy Arm.

21 May 2008...........Endicott Arm/Juneau
Once passing Summer Strait, Cape Decision, Chatham Strait & Frederick Sound, at around 0700 Star Princess started her passage through Endicott Arm because frozen ice in Sawyer glacier broke loose and filled in all Tracy Arm. At 1006 once out of Endicott Arm, she got various course towards Juneau. Star Princess was made fast alongside her berth in Juneau with all lines ashore and the gangways rigged and ready at 1330.

Whales (by Naturalist Alan Cortash):
He gave an up-close and personal look into the lives and behaviors of these spectacular animals. From some of Alaska's smallest to some of the largest.
. Ice worm: 1 inch small, thin, thread-like worms occupy the most diverse niches on the planet who are living in ice on Alaskan glaciers at zero degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit)
. Ice crystals: if color dark blue, meaning no air bubble inside; if color pure white, bubbles can pop when ice melts which releases pressure
. Trees with interlocking roots: it doesn't fall when tree dies because other trees keep it upright
. Harbor porpoise: the smallest whale, only 4 inches long
. Dall's porpoise: 5 to 6 feet; smaller than killer whale; fast and not shy; do 'bow riding' in front of ship
. Pacific White Sided Dolphin
. Orca (killer whale): the largest dolphin and largest predator; they learn faster and smarter than dolphins; big black tall fin; near Victoria; dorsal fin is 6 inches tall for males; females are 25 feet long, 8000 pounds and live up to 80 years old; males are 30 feet long, 10,000 pounds and live up to 60 years old; they are led by females; when age 13, dorsal fin starts to grow; 1) Resident: travel in groups, very vocal and eat fish; 2) Transient: travel in small family groups, shy, not very vocal and eat everything;
. Minke whale: 30 feet long; very elusive; sleek and fast; do not produce visible spouts; a slinky minke
. Grey whale: migrate from Arctic to Mexico, except Sitka and Vancouver Island
. Humpback whale: are endangered species; females are 45 to 50 feel long; males are 40 to 45 feet long; weighs almost 1 ton per foot; flipper is noticeable; big winged New Englander; breaching for fun, skin parasites, threat display, courtship display and herding fish; population totals 4400: 1) North Pacific Ocean 2000; 2) Hawaii 2000; 3) South East Asia 400; in spring time, all whales leave Hawaii to Alaska and babies swim beside Mom drafting; they eat 1000 pounds of fish a day, except salmon; 'Bubble Net Feeding' by dominant older females; they don't sleep in their entire life because they are voluntary breathers and they rest like a log; at the end of summer, not all go back to Hawaii because some stay in Alaska; the pregnant whales go back to Hawaii because babies can't survive cold water
. Baleen whale
. Sperm whale

Welcome to Juneau
In 1880, it was slow going for Joe Juneau and Richard Harris as they searched for gold with the help of Indian guides. After climbing mountains, forging streams and facing countless difficulties, they found nuggets “as large as beans.” From their discovery came three of the largest gold mines in the world. By the end of World War II, more than $150 million in gold had been mined. Eventually the mines closed, but the town Joe Juneau founded became the capital of Alaska and the business of gold was replaced by the business of government. Some 30,000 people live in Juneau. It's total area makes it one of the biggest towns in size in the world. Only Kiruna, Sweden and Sitka, Alaska exceed Juneau's 3,248 square miles. Today, Juneau is famous not only for gold and government but also for its breathtakingly beautiful glaciers and stunning views of both water and mountains.

Town, Tram and Trek
We took a tour of historic downtown Juneau, a refreshing trek to Treadwell caved-in mine and a ride up southeast Alaska's only aerial tram to Mt. Roberts. We boarded the tram for a ride to the Mountain House at 1,800 feet and saw a bald eagle at the raptor interpretive booth atop the mountain.

. Government encourages cultural activities, e.g., music, art, etc.
. It rains 222 days per year
. Treadwell Mining Co.: caved in 1917; 2600 feet below sea
. 1926: stampedes got fire

At 2130 the gangways were landed and shortly afterwards all side doors were secured for sea. At 2158 the ship maneuvered off her berth and was finished with the thrusters at 2230. Once clear from the entrance Star Princess set her course through Lynn Canal toward Skagway.

22 May 2008.................................Skagway
Star Princess made her final approach to Skagway during the early morning. She was made fast alongside her berth with all lines ashore and the gangways rigged and ready at 0640.

Skagway was the gateway to the gold fields for the thousands who flocked to Alaska and the Yukon with the hope of hitting it rich. Skagway may have boasted the shortest route to the Klondike, but it wasn't the easiest. Over 100 years ago, the White Pass route through the Coast Mountains and the shorter but steeper Chilkoot Trail were used by countless stampeders. Many a would-be miner perished on the treacherous Chilkoot Trail. The gold rush was a boon and by 1898, Skagway was Alaska's largest town with a population of about 20,000. Hotels, saloons, dance halls and gambling houses prospered, drawing Skagway residents as well as the 10,000 people living in the nearby tent city of Dyea. But when the gold yield dwindled in 1900, so did the population as miners quickly shifted to new finds in Nome. Today, Skagway has less than 1,000 residents. It still retains the flavor of the gold rush era especially on Broadway with its false-front buildings and the Trail of '98 Museum with its outstanding collection of memorabilia.

The Trail of '98
The hardest part about getting rich in the Klondike was just getting there. The Royal Northwest Mounted Police eyed the thousands of tenderfeet (called”cheechakos”) challenging the Chilkoot Trail and decreed that each man would have to haul enough food to last a year. It amounted to 2,000 pounds and most had to carry it on their backs, 200 pounds at a time. Of all the images of this period, perhaps the most vivid is the photo of an unending line of black specks marching up and over the mountain. Men back to nose against each other, fearing to lest they lose their place in line.

White Pass Scenic Railway
We took an unforgettable journey aboard the “Scenic Railway of the World” to the White Pass summit. The White Pass & Yukon Route is unlike any other railroad. Against all odds, the iron trail was carved through some of the North's most rugged terrain in 1898. This engineering wonder climbs nearly 3,000 feet over 20 miles of steep grades and cliff-hanging turns. Relax in old-fashioned parlor cars as our train agent retraced the original route to the White Pass summit, passing Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point and Dead Horse Gulch. We enjoyed a breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites. We also saw the original Klondike Trail of '98 worn into the rocks, a permanent tribute to the thousand of souls who passed this way in search of fortune. Luckily, we even spotted a young black bear on the return trip on the train.

At 1645 the gangways were landed and shortly afterwards all side doors were secured for sea. At 1710 the ship maneuvered off her berth. Once completed the swing, we set on Southerly course through Lynn Canal.

23 May 2008....................................At Sea
Ships clocks were advanced 1 hour at 0200 to GMT – 7
At 0125 Alaskan Pilots off the ship abeam of Cornwallis Point. Throughout the day Star Princess continued on her Southerly course through Chatham Strait toward Victoria.

Eagles, Seals and Bears....Oh My! (by Naturalist Alan Cortash)
. Bald eagle: a proud and noble bird to be the national symbol; it takes 5 years for a baby to develop white head, white tail and yellow beak; the first year is critical and half will die of the first winter; no longer on the endangered species list; a estimated 10,000 in Alaska; 7.5 feet from wing tip to wing tip; weighs 14 pounds (girls 10 to 15 and males 10); they mate for life to form a nesting territory; courtship flight every single spring time; the nest is 9 feet across, 20 feet deep and weight 2000 pounds; a scavenger, when hungry: 1) look for something dead; 2) steal from another bird; 3) hunt on its own
. Harbor seals: 6 feet long and 200 pounds; dark of white spots or white with dark spots; they crawl; swim with rear flippers; steer with forward flippers; no ears
. Sea lions: can walk on it's fours; swim with forward flippers; with small ear flaps
. California sea lions: weigh 300 to 400 pounds; they bark
. Steller sea lions: in Northern Pacific; males weigh 1400 pounds; they burp; excellent climbers
. Black bear: 300 pounds; short curved claws for climbing
. Brown bear: 1000 pounds; 98% in USA are in Alaska; males are up to 1400 pounds; standing up to 9 feet fall; longer, shaggier fur; long straight claws for digging
. Cinnamon bear: a subspecies of the American black bear
. Glacier bear: blue black bear
. Kermode bear: whiter fur; “spirit bear” or “ghost bear”; found in the central coast of Canada
. Grizzly bears: interior brown bears
. Kodiak bears: island brown bears
. About bear: they will not attack when you stand up; they don't all hibernate; in hibernation, the metabolism slows down but maintains body temperature; when out of hibernation, they eat skunk cabbage to cleanse up; they mate in spring, then gestation 90 days or delay implantation, then give birth in winter; cub weighs 16 ounces, blind and hairless; when you see a bear: 1) back away, keep an eye on it but don't stare; 2) toss a distraction; 3) never run away; black bears are more dangerous than brown bears; guns are not effective; can use bear mace; best defense: 1) let them know you are around, make noise and they will avoid you; 2) travel in groups; 3) never cook then sleep

24 May 2008..................................Victoria
Delayed arrival due to adverse weather.
Throughout the morning Star Princess continued on her Southerly course towards Victoria.
1200 in Juan De Fuca Strait
1615 Port Angeles Pilot on Board
The Star Princess was made fast alongside her berth in Victoria with all lines ashore and the gangways rigged and ready at 1715.

The Echoes of Alaska (by Naturalist Alan Cortash)
Over the years, what brings people to Alaska and why? Alan took a look back at the events, places and experience that makes a cruise to Alaska unlike anything else.
. Early people: Alent and Alutiiq are expert boatman and hunters; Inuit, Inupiaq and Yupik are Eskimos; Athapaskin and Tsimshian were traveling east Alaska and Canada
. Tlingit: a lot of food sources, salmon, herring and berries
. Totem poles: life style is much easier because they don't have official language, nor billboard; totem poles are handicrafts and artwork; 1) memorial or mortuary poles; 2) shame poles; 3) house poles to hold up clan house
. Clan house: 2 doors which are difficult to get into; they sleep according to ranks
. Canoes and ores: built by Heida people; it's carved by cedar trees, left in water, then throw in hot red rocks until water boiling so that the canoe can be bent
. Potlatch: it's a celebration of birth, death, marriage to show social status; personal stuff are given away
. Ulu knife: for chopping
in 1700: a Danish sea captain Vitus Bering did expedition to see if North America is connected to Asia; it attracted Russians for sea otter fur
. Sitka: “the Paris of Pacific”; in 1802, Tlingit drove off Russians; in 1804, Russians re-took Sitka; the sea otters diminished; in 1867, Russians sold it to U.S. For 7.2 million dollars
. 1896: gold rush discovered in Yukon territory; to crush 2000 pounds of rock to get 1 ounce of gold
. Treadwell mine: on Douglas Island; the tunnel collapsed in 1917
. Yukon: famous for panning for gold
. Skagway: the gateway to gold field Dyea via 1) White Pass, slower and allows pack animal; 2) Chilkoot trail, shorter but steeper with 33 miles
. Trail of '98: Canadian border required everyone prepared 2000 pound of one-year supply
. Oil: recent discovery was in 1853, by Russian travelers; also found in Arctic in 1968; Train Alaska Pipeline was completed in 1977; in 1989, ice altered course due to Exxon Valdez spilled 11,000 miles of shoreline
. Tourists: is the biggest profit because half of Alaska's oil reserves is gone

Welcome to Victoria
Victoria is a picture-perfect city exuding old-world charm, with fragrant and colorful flowers everywhere. Founded in 1843 by James Douglas of the Hudson's Bay Company, it was first known as Fort Victoria. By 1848, Vancouver Island was made a British colony and Victoria became its capital. In 1858, Victoria was a tent city for those touched with gold fever and was the base for some 25,000 prospectors on their way to the Frasier River. And the city is filled with beautiful gardens, charming houses and a very British feel.

We hopped on a horse-drawn trolley and took a trip back to “Victorian Times.” The journey wound its way through historic James Bay and into town. We enjoyed the old world architecture of the Legislative Buildings, were told that they will be illuminated by thousands of tiny lights during late evening tours, and the historic Empress Hotel. Then traveled through Beacon Hill Park, the natural heart of Victoria. The 154 acres of carefully preserved trees, gardens and wild-flower meadows provide a peaceful haven amidst a bustling community. Returned to the ship via the marine drive and enjoyed the majestic and ever-changing views across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Olympic Mountains.

At around 2345 the gangways were landed and shortly afterwards all side doors were secured for sea. At 2400 the ship maneuvered off her berth. Once clear from the breakwater, we set on Southerly course toward Seattle.

25 May 2008....................................Seattle
During the early morning, Star Princess made her final approach to Seattle with the local pilot embarking at 0130. At 0630 the vessel was in position at her berth. At 0700 the ship was made fast to the shore and the gangways were landed.

Sayonara
Technically, the state of Alaska is an exclave of the United States: it borders only Canadian territory. This has been an unforgettable trip in a sense that it brought us out into the wildness, despite the disappointment of retreating glaciers. The bald eagles, black bears, mountain goats, humpback whales are all among the nature's gifts. The journey was meant to explore the wild and lonely coast. Then the wildness began at Alaska border. We saw life in a roadless community. Imagine, cheap waterfront land and good fishing close at hand. We passed islands without number from Alaska border to Juneau and the history lurks at Juneau and Skagway. The shortcoming of this trip is that it only covers South East portion of Alaska. In the future, we should go further into the ice of Glacier Bay, then up the Glacier coast into the Gulf of Alaska, and ends up to the heart of Alaska, the Interior, to complete the whole discovery.

Star Princess is a medium size cruise ship with fine amenities and plenty activities on board. My sweet heart was suffering from sea sick at the beginning, even skipped the delicious dinner. He couldn't stop asking the same question over and over, 'Is it moving?'. Finally, he could enjoy it after the magic behind-the-ear patch. The advice is, get fully prepared.